The secrets of fine suit tailoring

The 10 fundamentals of a good suit

Let's add some visual aids



2. The shirt collars should be long enough to reach underneath the lapel, this avoids a mess under the chin which is very common in modern mass market suits


3. Lapels end about halfway from the collar to the shoulder bone to give a more proportioned and 'fuller' look


4.  Curvature in the lapel roll is a sign of fine tailoring and is usuallly requires hand pad sticthing and hand ironing to create the 'springy' roll



5. The coat's quarters at the front edge should sweep away from the 2nd button creating a more dynamic line. 



6. Coat length ends about halfway from the collar to the floor to give a balanced look


7. Sleeves should hang clean to avoid a look of strain in the suit


8. Trousers are well proportioned without strain while standing (so long as the material grazes your shoes)



9. The shoulder line is just extended with roundness in the upper half of the jacket which conveys a more atheletic shadow.



10. The four in hand knot should be the go to, small, tasteful and the asymmetry gives a sense of ease  



What should be avoided?

When the coat is too tight, the sleeves ride up and fail to hang cleanly


Coats are often too short giving the impression of wide hips on men


There shouldn't be a mismatch in the fit of the trousers and coat as it gives a tiered look to the body


Trousers should hang fully and not scrunch up like on the left


Reference: @dieworkwear on twitter